Khartoum sits at the intersection of Africa and the Arab World, and one's personal background in either of these two worlds--or neither, in some cases--greatly influences how one views Khartoum and, more generally, Sudan. It is in Khartoum that the White Nile, which starts in the rainforests of Rwanda, meets the Blue Nile, which emerges from the highlands of Ethiopia. It is from Khartoum where the new, mightier Nile, flows past Aswan and the pyramids at Luxor before providing Cairo its sustenance and then fanning out to enter the Mediterranean Sea. Khartoum is literally at the geographic meeting point of Africa and the Arab World, and this has influenced its people, architecture, culture, and society.
I have only been in Khartoum 10 days, so perhaps my view of the city will change, but in talking with others, it has become apparent that perspective is key to how one approaches Sudan. I view Khartoum as an African city with an Arab flair. For instance, the sand-lined roads are reminiscent of Dar es Salaam or Kigali. The massive slabs of concrete rising along the roads seem like they are probably in a perpetual state of construction (like in Maputo or Lusaka). And things seem to fall apart at any given moment, like my experience this morning with a car's rear bumper randomly flying off as we were driving down a major road (like Moroni or Harare).
To others I've spoken to, Khartoum is an Arab city with an African flair. The sand and dust are like any of the desert countries in the Arab World. The prevalence of high-end cars sometimes looks like a scene out of Doha or Dubai. Not to mention that the Sudanese speak Arabic, even if it does have a lot of non-Arab root words in it.
The best part is that both of these views of Khartoum are true. An Africanist like myself will find the city comforting in many ways and recognize that an adjustment is needed to deal with the fact that I can't understand the language OR read it. An Arabist finds the city comforting in the use of many traditional Arab customs, but the inconsistency of getting things in Khartoum may be off-putting. So this is what I've discovered in my first 10 days here. I'm looking forward to further exploring the city and hopefully getting to other parts of Sudan during my two years here.
Unfortunately, there's no picture or favorite video today because the internet is being silly and, while generally working, is a bit too finicky for my liking. So next time.
I have only been in Khartoum 10 days, so perhaps my view of the city will change, but in talking with others, it has become apparent that perspective is key to how one approaches Sudan. I view Khartoum as an African city with an Arab flair. For instance, the sand-lined roads are reminiscent of Dar es Salaam or Kigali. The massive slabs of concrete rising along the roads seem like they are probably in a perpetual state of construction (like in Maputo or Lusaka). And things seem to fall apart at any given moment, like my experience this morning with a car's rear bumper randomly flying off as we were driving down a major road (like Moroni or Harare).
To others I've spoken to, Khartoum is an Arab city with an African flair. The sand and dust are like any of the desert countries in the Arab World. The prevalence of high-end cars sometimes looks like a scene out of Doha or Dubai. Not to mention that the Sudanese speak Arabic, even if it does have a lot of non-Arab root words in it.
The best part is that both of these views of Khartoum are true. An Africanist like myself will find the city comforting in many ways and recognize that an adjustment is needed to deal with the fact that I can't understand the language OR read it. An Arabist finds the city comforting in the use of many traditional Arab customs, but the inconsistency of getting things in Khartoum may be off-putting. So this is what I've discovered in my first 10 days here. I'm looking forward to further exploring the city and hopefully getting to other parts of Sudan during my two years here.
Unfortunately, there's no picture or favorite video today because the internet is being silly and, while generally working, is a bit too finicky for my liking. So next time.
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